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Half an hour north of Tenancingo you reach TENANGO DEL VALLE , from where you can visit the excavated remains nearby of the large fortified Malatzinca township of Teotenango (Tues-Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 10am-4pm; US$1.10, free on Wed). It is a fifteen-minute flat walk to the entrance then a steep ten-minute hike up to the site: to get there from the centre of the village, head north along Porfirio Díaz Nte, then take a left up Roman Piña Chan Nte. There's a small museum on site.

Some 25km further north you pass METEPEC , famed as a pottery -making centre. Brightly coloured local wares can be found at craft shops throughout the country; supposedly the figures that characterize these pots were originally inspired by the saints on the facade of Metepec's sixteenth-century Franciscan monastery, and in the twentieth century Diego Rivera taught the villagers new techniques of colouring and design. There's a market here on Mondays. From Metepec it is less than 10km on to Toluca.