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Food & Drink: Self-service (fast food) is available but table-service is usual. Bars have table- and/or counter-service. There are laws relating to minors and licensing on civic holidays. Mexican cuisine is delicious and varied; there are many specialities, such as turkey mole, a sauce containing a score of ingredients including several sorts of chilli, tomatoes, peanuts, chocolate, almonds, onions and garlic. Another sauce, guacamole, incorporates avocado pears, red peppers, onions and tomatoes, and often accompanies turkey or chicken with tortillas (pancakes made with maize). There are also enchiladas, tacos (maize pancakes served with pork, chicken, vegetables or cheese and chilli) and tamales. Every region of Mexico has its own dishes. International cuisine is available at most hotels in the larger cities, and at most restaurants. There is a wide variety of exotic fruits such as papayas, mangoes, guavas, zapotes, pineapples, mameyes and tunas (juicy prickly pears, fruit of the cactus). Drink: Imported spirits are expensive, local spirits probably give better value for money; the best buys are rum and gin. European aperitifs are produced in Mexico and are of excellent quality; and, of course, there is tequila (made from maguey, a variety of cactus). It is traditionally drunk neat with a pinch of salt and a bite of lemon, and makes excellent cocktails. Mexico's coffee liqueur, kahlúa, is world famous. Hidalgo, Domecq and Derrasola are good Mexican white wines, whilst Los Reyes and Calafia are excellent reds. Mexico is a producer of good beer; both the dark beers and the light beers are worth sampling. All the big supermarkets sell spirits, beer and wine.

Nightlife: With a range of settings from panoramic restaurants to intimate bars, Mexico City offers excellent music and assorted cuisine, with some of the best bars and restaurants located in hotels. Nightlife is very vibrant and exciting and features a large variety of top-name entertainers, international shows, jazz groups, rock groups, traditional Mexican music and dancing, Spanish flamenco dancers and gypsy violinists. Worth seeing is the impressive light show, with accompanying sound show at the archaeological site of Teotihuacán. The history and mythology of this ancient civilisation are re-created through a gorgeous display of coloured lights, poetic dialogue and music. The season runs from October to May.

Shopping: Good buys include silverware, ceramics and locally made pottery, woven wool blankets (sarapes), brightly coloured scarves in wool or silk (rebozos), richly embroidered charro hats, straw work, blown glass, embossed leather, hard and semi-precious stones, gold and silver jewellery, finely pleated men's shirts in cotton voile (guayaberas), white dresses embroidered with multi-coloured flowers (huipiles), which are sold in the markets, and hammocks. The best shopping is in Mexico City, Cuernavaca, Taxco, San Miguel de Allende, Acapulco, Guadalajara, Oaxaca, Mérida and Campeche. Shopping hours: 0900-2000 Monday to Saturday (Mexico City); 0900-1400 and 1600-2000 Monday to Friday (rest of the country).

Special Events: Mexicans celebrate more than 120 fêtes and festivals in a year, some of them religious, others secular, national or local. Most provide occasion for music, dancing, processions and fireworks. The following is a selection of the major festivals and other special events celebrated annually in Mexico. For a complete list, contact the Mexican Tourist Office (see address section). Jan Fiesta de Enero, Chiapa de Corzo, Chiapas. Jan 6 Feast of the Epiphany, nationwide. Feb 2 Candlemas, nationwide. Feb Carnival, Mazatlan, Veracruz and other locations. Feb 27 Mardi Gras, nationwide. Mar Spring Equinox, celebrated at the Temple of Kukulkan, Chichén-Itzá. Apr-May San Marcos National Fair, Aguascalientes. May 10 Mothers' Day. May Cancun Jazz Festival. Jun 14 Corpus Christi (special events varying regionally), nationwide. Jul (last two Mondays) Guelaguetza (cultural event dating back to pre-Columbian times), Oaxaca. Aug 14 Eve of the Feast of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary (streets carpeted in designs of flower-petals and coloured sawdust, and a midnight procession), Huamantla (Tlaxcala). Sep Autumn Equinox, celebrated at the Temple of Kukulkan, Chichén-Itzá. Oct October Festivals, Guadalajara; Black Cinema Festival, Acapulco. Nov 1-2 Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead), nationwide. Dec Festival of the Radishes (local farmers compete to produce the best or biggest radish, others make radish carvings and exhibit them), Oaxaca; National Silver Fair, Taxco.

Social Conventions: Handshaking is the most common form of greeting. Casual sportswear is acceptable for daytime dress throughout the country. At beach resorts, dress is very informal for men and women and nowhere are men expected to wear ties. In Mexico City, however, dress tends to be smart in elegant restaurants and hotel dining rooms. Smoking is unrestricted except where notified. Mexicans regard relationships and friendships as the most important thing in life next to religion and they are not afraid to show their emotions. A large Mexican family always seems to find room for one more and a visitor who becomes friends with a Mexican will invariably be made part of the family. Visitors should always remember that local customs and traditions are important. Tipping: Service charges are rarely added to hotel, restaurant or bar bills and many of the staff depend on tips for their livelihood. 15% is expected and 20% if the service has been very good. Airport porterage is charged at the equivalent of US$1 per bag.